Growing Citron Melon: Expert Advice for Garden Success

Growing Citron Melon: the heirloom workhorse with secret talents

Growing Citron Melon scratches two itches, it makes bulletproof preserves and it steadies the cucurbit patch in a hot, stingy summer. I grow it for its firm, pale flesh, high pectin, and a rind that laughs at rough handling.

Citrullus lanatus var. citroides runs like a watermelon cousin with desert stamina. I have picked fruit after the first light frost and cooked jam while the tomato vines sulked.

Quick facts the way growers use them

• Latin name: Citrullus lanatus var. citroides, also sold as “preserving melon” or “pie melon.”
• Heat and days: 85 to 110 frost free days, best at 70 to 95 F, 21 to 35 C.
• Soil: well drained loam or sandy loam, pH 6.0 to 6.8.
• Spacing: hills 4 to 6 ft apart, 1.2 to 1.8 m, rows 6 to 8 ft, 1.8 to 2.4 m.
• Water: 1 to 1.5 in weekly, 25 to 38 mm, more on sand.
• Pollinators: bees do the heavy lifting.
• Fruit: 6 to 12 lb, 2.7 to 5.4 kg, stores for months at 50 to 60 F, 10 to 15 C.

Site, soil, and pre-plant setup

Give full sun and heat, then add a windbreak if your site scours. In cool springs I lay black plastic or woven fabric to warm soil and tame weeds.

I work in 2 to 3 in, 5 to 7.5 cm, of finished compost and a balanced pre-plant feed around 5-5-5. Too much early nitrogen builds braggy vines and stingy fruit.

Side dress with a light nitrogen boost at vine run, then stop once fruit set is steady. Citron’s deep roots reward consistent moisture over big gulps.

Sowing and transplanting without drama

Direct sow after soil hits 70 F, 21 C, measured 2 in, 5 cm, deep. I plant 3 seeds per hill, thin to the best 1 or 2.

Transplants save time in short seasons, but use 3 to 4 inch, 7.5 to 10 cm, cells and disturb roots as little as possible. Harden for a week, then set in on a warm afternoon.

• Seed depth: 0.75 to 1 in, 2 to 2.5 cm.
• Germination: 5 to 10 days if warm.
• Row covers help early, remove at first female flowers.

Water, mulch, and heat management

Drip tape gives me even moisture and clean foliage. Mulch after soils warm to hold 1 to 1.5 in, 25 to 38 mm, per week without crusting.

I back off slightly a week before harvest to tighten texture for preserves. Do not stress vines to the point of wilt at midday.

Pollination and fruit set

Male flowers arrive first, then females with tiny fruit behind the petals. On slow mornings I hand pollinate with a soft brush to beat the bees to it.

University of Florida IFAS notes that “1 to 2 honeybee hives per acre improve watermelon pollination and yield,” a guideline that fits citron melons as well.

Variety shortlist for Growing Citron Melon

• Red Seeded Citron: classic preserving type, crimson seeds, dense flesh that candies cleanly.
• Colorado Preserving Melon: vigorous vine, oval fruit with green striping, reliable in arid beds.
• Arkansas Red Seeded: steady producer in sticky humidity, rind stands up in storage.
• Jam Melon: compact fruit on long vines, cooks down with citrus peel like a dream.

I rotate these across beds to spread disease pressure. The red seeded strains have given me the driest, most pectin rich cubes for marmalade.

Common problems and pro moves

Chewers and sap suckers

• Cucumber beetles: start under floating row cover, use yellow sticky cards at row edges, dust the seed trench with kaolin clay on sowing day.
• Squash vine borer: less of an issue than on squash, still scout for orange frass at stems and wrap lower vines with foil tape.
• Aphids and mites: keep foliage rinsed, release lacewings if you like paid help, and avoid high nitrogen that turns leaves into candy.

Blights and wilts

• Fusarium wilt: rotate 3 to 4 years out of cucurbits and nightshades, solarize beds in hot climates, and consider grafted plants if you grow melons annually.
• Anthracnose and gummy stem blight: drip irrigation, wide spacing, and morning airflow. Remove first infected leaves at once and compost hot.
• Powdery mildew: prune a few interior runners for airflow, and spray potassium bicarbonate at first sign.

USDA-ARS and several university programs report that C. lanatus var. citroides is used as rootstock for Fusarium management in commercial watermelon production.

Weed, feed, and vine management

I hoe shallow in the first two weeks, then the canopy handles the rest. Fabric or straw mulch saves hours and keeps fruit clean.

No pruning needed, though I train runners out of paths with a rake. A light foliar feed of seaweed at first flower can steady set on sandy soils.

Harvest and storage that respects the fruit

For citron types, the nearest tendril browns, the ground spot turns creamy, and the rind resists a thumbnail. My field test is the dull thud when tapped, then I check that the stem feels corky.

Cut with pruners and leave a 2 in, 5 cm, handle. Cure a week in shade with airflow, then store 50 to 60 F, 10 to 15 C, at 85 to 90 percent RH for 2 to 4 months.

Kitchen use that actually shines

• Cubed preserves with lemon, ginger, and sugar, it sets beautifully without added pectin.
• Candied rind, simmer twice, then dry and toss in citrus sugar.
• Pie filling with warm spices, a firm, translucent texture that holds a slice.
• Chutney with chiles and mustard seed, great with grilled meats.
• Roast the seeds with salt and smoked paprika, snack while the jam cools.

Raw flavor runs plain, so I let the spice cabinet drive. The fruit’s structure does the rest.

Seed saving and isolation for purists

Citron melons cross with other watermelons, so isolate by 0.5 mile, 800 m, or bag blooms and hand pollinate. For clean seed, ferment scooped seed in water 2 to 3 days, rinse, then dry on a screen.

Label by hill and reject off types. Good seed stays viable 4 to 5 years in a cool, dry jar.

Comparisons and smart alternatives

• Citron vs watermelon: citron wins for preserves, storage, and drought tolerance, watermelon wins for fresh eating.
• Citron vs winter melon (Benincasa hispida): winter melon is for savory soups and longer storage, citron for jams and baking.
• Citron vs pie melon muskmelons: muskmelon “preserving” strains break down faster, citron holds shape in syrup.

Where to buy and what to look for

Look for named strains like Red Seeded Citron from heirloom focused seed houses. I have had reliable stock from Seed Savers Exchange, Southern Exposure, Sand Hill Preservation, and regional co-ops.

Check days to maturity, rind markings for easy field ID, and seed color if you want that classic red seeded look. Ask vendors about seedborne disease screening.

Season timing by region

In zones 5 to 6 I start in cells 2 to 3 weeks before last frost, then transplant onto warm beds. In zones 7 to 10 direct sowing after the soil wakes up gives tougher plants and deeper roots.

Short seasons benefit from low tunnels with clear plastic early, vented every sunny day. Pull covers at bloom to let the bees clock in.

Gear that earns its keep

• Soil thermometer, plant only after it reads 70 F, 21 C, mid morning.
• Drip kit with 0.5 gph emitters, 1.9 lph, at 12 in, 30 cm, spacing for sand, 18 in, 45 cm, for loam.
• Floating row cover, 0.5 oz, 17 g, weight for early protection.
• Bypass pruners for clean harvest cuts.
• Soil test every other year to dial in pH and potassium for fruit quality.

Field notes from seasons that made me earn it

The summer my drip timer failed, citron still set fruit while my cantaloupes folded. I learned to mulch heavier and feed lighter, and I have kept that habit.

In a heat dome year, I saw fewer bee hours, so I hand pollinated at breakfast with a coffee in one hand and a paintbrush in the other. Yields held steady and the preserves shelf stayed full.

Evidence and references worth your time

“Watermelons perform best with 1 to 2 hives per acre and consistent irrigation,” University of Florida IFAS Vegetable Production Guides.

“Germination improves as soil temperatures exceed 70 F,” North Carolina State Extension, Cucurbit Production Notes.

“Store watermelons at 50 to 60 F and high relative humidity to extend shelf life,” USDA Agricultural Handbook on Harvesting and Postharvest Handling.

“Citrullus lanatus var. citroides has been used as rootstock to manage Fusarium wilt,” summaries from USDA-ARS and HortScience publications.

I also lean on Clemson Cooperative Extension and UC ANR melon guides for spacing, fertility, and disease ID. Extension bulletins make the difference between guesswork and clean execution.

Growing Citron Melon isn’t about chasing trends—it’s about honoring a fruit that laughs in the face of drought and rewards patience with old-world flavor. Give it sun, room to sprawl, and well-drained soil. Keep your watering steady but never soggy. Mulch deep. Harvest when the rind resists your thumb and the vines begin to yellow. Respect the process; Citron Melon takes its sweet time.

If you’re drawn to garden oddities or want something with grit and history, this is your plant. It’ll teach you the rhythm of the seasons and maybe remind you why you started gardening in the first place. For those who crave more rare edibles, check out mashua or tiger nut—they’ll keep your hands dirty and your table interesting. In the end, growing citron melon is about patience, grit, and a taste of something nearly forgotten. That’s garden satisfaction money can’t buy.