Growing Perilla for Flavor, Color, and Culinary Versatility

I grow Perilla frutescens for the perfume, the color, and the way it flips a plate from plain to electric. The first time I salted red shiso for umeboshi, my kitchen stained the color of a Tokyo alley at dusk, and I never looked back.

Perilla goes by shiso, kkaennip, tía tô, and beefsteak plant, with two main garden types: var. crispa for leafy use and var. frutescens for oilseed. Heights run 18 to 36 inches, 45 to 90 centimeters, with green, red, or bicolor foliage that can read velvet in high light.

Grow as a warm-season annual in most zones, or short-lived perennial in frost-free areas. It thrives in 6 to 8 hours of sun, yet in heat waves I slide mine into afternoon shade to keep the leaves tender.

Target a loose, fertile loam with steady moisture and sharp drainage. I aim for pH 6.0 to 7.2, which keeps nutrients available without locking out color.

Perilla seed skews finicky if buried deep or sown old. I surface sow fresh seed 6 to 8 weeks before last frost, press lightly, and leave it uncovered since the seed is light sensitive.

“Seeds need light to germinate; press into the medium and do not cover.” — NCSU Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox

I keep the tray at 70 to 75 F, 21 to 24 C, with bottom heat and patience. Germination runs 7 to 21 days, and a brief 1 to 2 week pre-chill in the fridge boosts stubborn lots.

I transplant after the last frost once nights hold above 55 F, 13 C. Space 12 to 16 inches apart, 30 to 40 centimeters, and tuck a slow-release organic feed into the hole for a steady start.

Consistent moisture beats feast-and-famine watering, so I mulch with shredded leaves at 1 to 2 inches, 2.5 to 5 centimeters. Heavy nitrogen balloons foliage and blunts flavor, so I feed lightly with a balanced organic fertilizer or a seaweed fish blend at half strength every 3 weeks.

Red cultivars color up deeper with bright light and cooler nights. Stress edges the flavor toward spice, so I give high light, modest fertility, and never let the root zone waterlog.

I top seedlings at 6 to 8 inches, 15 to 20 centimeters, to branch and delay flowering. Keep pinching every 10 to 14 days, and eat the tips, and you’ll harvest leaves for months.

Perilla performs in 3 to 5 gallon pots, 11 to 19 liters, with a peat-free, airy mix and a weekly liquid feed. On a hot balcony I cluster pots and set a saucer of water nearby to bump humidity and foil spider mites.

Under LEDs I give 14 to 16 hours of light and a target DLI around 14 to 18 mol m−2 d−1, which keeps leaves thick and aromatic. In recirculating systems I run pH 5.8 to 6.2 and EC 1.2 to 1.6, similar to basil, and pinch hard to keep the canopy compact.

Shiso microgreens pack a peppermint-cinnamon hit that wakes up eggs and sashimi. Sow dense on flats, keep uncovered, and cut at 10 to 20 days when the first true leaf shows.

I start taking leaves at 6 to 8 weeks from sowing, earlier if plants are vigorous. A well-managed plant gives hands of leaves weekly, and the yield spikes if you never let it bloom.

Shiso bruises like basil and hates cold. I stand stems in a jar of water at room temperature for short-term holding, or wrap in a barely damp towel in the fridge for 2 to 4 days.

For longer storage I salt-pack red shiso, freeze leaf puree, or steep leaves in rice vinegar for a magenta pantry staple. Drying works but mutes the top notes since perillaldehyde flashes off fast.

Green shiso lifts tomatoes, sashimi, and summer rolls with a cool, anise-mint snap. Red shiso colors umeboshi and shibazuke, perfumes simple syrups, and turns lemonade the color of neon.

Korean perilla leaves carry grilled meat like a lettuce wrap in a leather jacket. The flower spikes fry up into delicate tempura, and the seeds season furikake or get lacto-fermented with chili and garlic.

The punch comes from perillaldehyde, with backup from limonene and other terpenes. Leaves also pack rosmarinic acid, a polyphenol studied for antioxidant activity by food chemists.

“Perilla leaves are a rich source of rosmarinic acid.” — Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry

Oilseed types set heavy seed late season that presses into a nutty oil rich in omega-3. Analyses repeatedly report alpha-linolenic acid often above 50 percent of total fatty acids in perilla oil.

“Perilla oil contains a high proportion of alpha‑linolenic acid, frequently exceeding 50%.” — Journal of Oleo Science

Flea beetles stipple seedlings, slugs carve holes in shade, and spider mites flare in dry heat. I intercept with row cover early, iron phosphate bait after rain, and a strong water blast plus horticultural soap for mites and aphids.

Damping off hits crowded flats, so I boost airflow and bottom water. If leaves yellow between veins, I check pH and back off wet feet before reaching for fertilizer.

Perilla self-seeds with gusto, and in parts of the U.S. it is listed as invasive, so deadhead if you garden near natural areas. I bag flower spikes once I have enough seed and pull volunteers before they harden off.

“Perilla mint contains perilla ketone and can cause atypical interstitial pneumonia in cattle.” — Merck Veterinary Manual

If you keep livestock, do not let perilla establish in or near pasture. Check local regulations and invasive species lists before planting large blocks.

It pairs well with tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant, filling the mid-story and shading soil. Late flowers feed bees when summer crops peter out, and that alone earns it a corner in my beds.

• Late winter: chill seed in the fridge 1 to 2 weeks if previous germination was poor.
• Early spring: start indoors under lights, surface sow, 70 to 75 F, 21 to 24 C.
• After last frost: transplant, mulch, and pinch.
• Summer: harvest twice weekly, keep moisture steady, pinch flower spikes.
• Late summer: save seed from best plants, salt-pack, and brew shiso vinegar.

1. For sashimi and salads: ‘Ao Shiso’ (green, large leaf, clean citrus-mint profile).
2. For pickling and color: ‘Aka Shiso’ (red, anthocyanin rich, stains beautifully).
3. For ornamental borders and cocktails: ‘Britton’ or ‘Purple Frills’ (ruffled, bicolor, strong aroma).
4. For Korean wraps: ‘Kkaennip’ types with broad, tender leaves and a sesame-nutty note.
5. For containers: compact green strains labeled dwarf or patio, 12 to 18 inches tall.
6. For late-season seed: Oilseed perilla strains selected for high shatter resistance.
7. For microgreens: any red strain for visual pop and high fragrance at cotyledon stage.

Fresh seed matters since viability drops fast after a year, so I buy from vendors that print a current pack date and test germination. Look for untreated or certified organic seed if you grow microgreens or plan to use leaves raw all season.

Seedlings at markets should be compact, not rootbound, and smell bright when you ruffle the top. For perilla oil or dried leaf, ask for harvest date and storage conditions, since aroma fades in heat.

Why are my red leaves turning green in shade. Anthocyanins build under bright light, so move the plant into stronger sun and feed lightly.

Why do plants bolt early. Long stress or crowding triggers bloom, so pinch, water evenly, and harvest hard to reset growth.

Can I grow perilla with basil. Yes, the care overlaps, but perilla tolerates a bit more shade and likes slightly cooler nights.

What spacing in hydro. I plant 6 to 8 inches on center, 15 to 20 centimeters, and trim weekly to keep airflow.

How do I stop self-seeding. Pinch off every flower spike you see and mulch thick to smother volunteers.

If you already grow Thai basil, add green shiso to chase a cooler, spicier register in salads and noodles. For purple beds, red shiso outcolors ‘Dark Opal’ basil and shrugs off midday glare with better leaf texture.

I lost a whole flat the year I covered seed with vermiculite, so I wrote “surface sow only” on the packet in ink. I also learned to harvest in the morning when oil levels peak, and the kitchen smells like a midnight ramen bar for hours.

• Days to first harvest: 45 to 60 from sowing, faster in heat with consistent moisture.
• Soil pH: 6.0 to 7.2, organic matter 4 to 6 percent is plenty.
• Spacing: 12 to 16 inches, 30 to 40 centimeters, with a 2 inch, 5 centimeter mulch.
• Water: 1 inch per week, 25 millimeters, more in containers.
• Light: full sun with afternoon shade in hot climates.

NCSU Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox entry for Perilla frutescens confirms light-dependent germination and invasive status notes. Merck Veterinary Manual explains perilla ketone and livestock toxicity in clear terms for farm-adjacent gardeners.

Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry and Journal of Oleo Science document rosmarinic acid in leaves and the high alpha-linolenic acid fraction in perilla oil. USDA and regional invasive species councils list distribution and control guidance that informs planting decisions.

Growing Perilla hands you a plant that brings drama to the garden and depth to the kitchen. Its crinkled leaves, whether green or purple, work as well in summer salads as they do pickled or sprinkled atop a bowl of rice. Give it sun, water, and a corner of your plot—it will reward you with flavor, color, and endless culinary experiments. For cooks eager to experiment, Perilla's versatility stands shoulder to shoulder with herbs like lovage. Plant some, pick often, and let the bold, fresh tastes remind you why the simple act of growing Perilla keeps the kitchen and the garden connected in the most satisfying ways.