Growing Valerian: From Seedlings to a Healthy Garden Harvest

Growing Valerian: from seedlings to a healthy garden harvest

I grow Valeriana officinalis for its scented roots, billowing umbels, and the wild hum of hoverflies around it. It stands tall, 3 to 5 feet high (0.9 to 1.5 m), with a stubborn will to thrive in moist, rich soil.

Know the plant

Perennial, rhizomatous, and eager to reseed, valerian fills a bed fast if you let seed heads ripen. I learned to deadhead or I get a meadow where I wanted a patch.

It prefers moist, fertile loam at pH 6.0 to 7.5 and steady moisture. In cool regions it loves full sun, while in hot summers I give it afternoon shade.

Seed starting that actually works

Valerian seed is short-lived, so I buy fresh each year and store it cold. Refrigeration keeps germination steady and saves headaches in spring.

Chill, light, and timing

I cold stratify seed 2 to 4 weeks at 34 to 41 F (1 to 5 C). Then I sow at 65 to 70 F (18 to 21 C) and expect sprouts in 10 to 21 days.

Seeds need light to germinate, so I press them into the surface without burying. A humidity dome keeps the surface evenly damp, not soggy.

Pro move: dense flats, gentle pricking-out

I sow densely in 72-cell trays or open flats and prick-out once roots knit. Handling them young prevents the lanky, floppy stage that never quite recovers.

“Surface-sown seed, reliable after a short cold period, and quick germination in gentle warmth.” RHS plant profile, Royal Horticultural Society, 2023.

Transplanting and spacing

I harden seedlings for 7 to 10 days outdoors, then plant after the last hard frost. I give each plant 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) to breathe.

Deep watering at planting sets the crown level with the soil. Mulch right away to lock in moisture.

Soil prep that pays off

I mix 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of finished compost into the top 8 inches (20 cm). If drainage lags, I add coarse sand or fine gravel until water percolates within a minute.

Overfeeding with nitrogen grows lush tops and bland roots. I side-dress with compost midseason and skip hot synthetic feeds.

Water, then water again

Valerian craves even moisture, about 1 inch (25 mm) per week, more in heat. In July I often water every other day in sandy soils.

Mulch with straw or shredded leaves 2 inches (5 cm) thick. Bare soil bakes plants and shrinks roots.

Light and climate

USDA zones 4 to 9 fit valerian well, with winter chill boosting vigor. In zones 8 to 9 I place it where afternoons cool and the hose reaches easily.

Wind topples tall stalks, so I tuck plants behind a mesh fence or stake at 3 feet (0.9 m). A single soft tie around the clump keeps the stand upright.

Containment and self-seeding

Valerian throws seed like confetti. I clip flower heads as they fade if I am growing for roots.

For pollinator fireworks, I let a few bloom and bag the rest. Volunteers are simple to pot up or pull young.

Growing Valerian in containers

I use at least a 5 to 7 gallon pot (19 to 26 L) with a moisture-holding mix of compost, loam, and bark. The crown sits slightly high to avoid rot.

Containers dry fast, so I water daily in heat. I feed monthly with a mild fish or seaweed tea at half strength.

Pests, diseases, and simple fixes

Slugs swipe seedlings; copper tape or nighttime hand-picking solves it. Aphids cluster on stems; a quick blast of water or insecticidal soap ends that party.

Powdery mildew shows in cramped beds, so I thin plants and water soil, not foliage. Waterlogged soils invite root rot, which is a one-way street, so I manage drainage first.

Root harvest, the whole point

I harvest in year two, autumn through early winter after dieback, when roots smell strong and earthy. Year one plants should build crowns without disturbance.

I lift with a digging fork, shake off clods, and slice rhizomes into thumb-thick chunks. Side roots hold plenty of aroma too, so I keep them.

Cleaning and drying for quality

I rinse roots in two changes of clean water, then pat dry. I cut into 0.25 inch (6 mm) slices for even drying.

Dry at 95 to 104 F (35 to 40 C) with steady airflow until pieces snap. Too hot and the volatile oil flashes off and the magic goes with it.

“Roots are dug in autumn of the second year; dry warm with active ventilation to preserve aroma and valerenic constituents.” American Herbal Pharmacopoeia, Valerian Root and Rhizome, 2013.

Post-harvest storage

I store bone-dry roots in amber glass, filled to the shoulder, with a dated label. Cool, dark shelves hold quality for 12 to 18 months.

If the jar fogs, I redry at low heat and try again. Moisture is the enemy that ruins flavor and chemistry.

Varieties and sourcing

Seed houses often list common valerian simply as V. officinalis. For uniform stands, I buy current-season lots and avoid mystery mixes or stale packets.

Japanese valerian (V. fauriei) also grows well but varies in height and scent. I keep it separate to track performance.

Companions that share its thirst

• Angelica, lovage, and meadowsweet for a tall, moisture-loving border.
• Skullcap and lemon balm for a calmer understory with living mulch.
• Catnip kept a few feet away, unless you like cats rolling in your beds.

Safety, legality, and local ecology

Garden heliotrope can escape cultivation in riparian zones. I deadhead religiously near waterways and compost spent blooms hot.

Some regions treat it as a managed weed, so I check state lists before planting. Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board flags it for spread risk in certain counties.

Buying guide: seeds, starts, and gear

• Seeds: request fresh, tested lots and a packed-on date. Ask the vendor about germination percentage and harvest year.
• Starts: look for stocky plants with multiple crowns and white, firm roots. Avoid potbound or floppy stems.
• Soil test kit: pH and organic matter checks pay off before you amend.
• Mulch: clean straw or shredded leaves to hold moisture and suppress weeds.
• Drying: mesh trays or a dehydrator with precise low heat control.
• Storage: amber glass with tight lids and labels that include date and bed location.

Alternatives and complements to Growing Valerian

• Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis): fast, forgiving, bright citrus scent, best fresh.
• Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata): vining, loves heat, architectural trellis plant.
• Hops (Humulus lupulus): vigorous climber, needs stout support and regular pruning.
• Skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora): tidy footprint, thrives in damp edges.

Season-by-season playbook

• Late winter: stratify seed 2 to 4 weeks at 34 to 41 F (1 to 5 C).
• Early spring: surface-sow, bottom-water, and pot up once true leaves appear.
• Late spring: transplant after frost, mulch, and stake before stems stretch.
• Summer: water steady, deadhead or let a few heads ripen for pollinators.
• Autumn of year two: dig, wash, slice, dry low and slow, and jar tight.

What the science and institutions say

The EMA’s herbal monograph notes traditional use of valerian root preparations for mild nervous tension and sleep disturbances. Gardeners who grow for craft use usually time harvest to coincide with strongest aroma, which mirrors this traditional practice.

The RHS calls it a moisture-loving perennial for sun or partial shade with tall flower stalks attractive to insects. The American Herbal Pharmacopoeia details drying temperatures and collection in the second year to protect volatile constituents.

“Fast growth to 1.5 m, umbels adored by hoverflies and bees, and a preference for moisture-retentive soils.” Royal Horticultural Society, Plant Details, 2023.

Field notes from repeated grows

I get the fattest roots from plants kept evenly damp with a straw mulch and a compost side-dress in midsummer. Cutting flower stalks early concentrates energy underground and reduces woody rhizomes.

Cats go feral around drying roots, so I dry in a screened shed. In clay, raised beds are worth the lumber and the fewer headaches.

Quick answers for Growing Valerian

• Germination rate: best with fresh seed, often 60 to 80 percent after short chill.
• Time to transplant: 4 to 6 weeks from sowing, once roots hold the plug.
• Spacing: 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm).
• Water: 1 inch per week (25 mm), more in heat and sand.
• Harvest window: autumn of year two, after top dieback.
• Drying temp: 95 to 104 F (35 to 40 C) with active airflow.

Credible sources

• Royal Horticultural Society, Valeriana officinalis plant profile, 2023.
• American Herbal Pharmacopoeia, Valerian Root and Rhizome Monograph, 2013.
• European Medicines Agency, Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products, Community Herbal Monograph on Valerianae radix, 2020.
• Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board, Garden Heliotrope listing, current guidance.

Growing Valerian rewards patience. From the first green curl of a seedling to the dug roots and sweet-scented flowers, this herb brings a touch of wildness and a sense of calm to any plot. Give it rich soil, steady moisture, and a bit of space, and it’ll return the favor with resilient growth and potent roots by your second season. The real trick? Leave impatience at the door—valerian grows on its own terms. If you’re looking to pair valerian with other herbs, you might try growing marjoram or growing oregano for a patch that’s as useful as it is beautiful. In the end, growing valerian is about trusting the process, letting the garden work its quiet magic, and knowing the roots you pull from the earth are worth every slow week in between.