Growing Cilantro: Simple Steps for Fresh, Flavorful Herbs

Growing Cilantro: Simple Steps for Fresh, Flavorful Herbs

I learned to sow cilantro on cool mornings after a June heat spike vaporized a bed in three days. The plant wants a spring sprint and a fall reprise, not midsummer punishment.

Choose the right seed

Bolt-resistant varieties keep leaves longer before flowering, which means more salsa and less heartbreak. I rotate ‘Santo’, ‘Calypso’, ‘Caribe’, ‘Leisure’, and ‘Cruiser’ for steady yield.

Seed quality matters. Fresh seed germinates faster, and cilantro seed stays viable for about 2 to 3 years if kept cool and dry.

Soil, site, and setup

A loose, well-drained bed with pH 6.2 to 6.8 gives top growth. I mix in finished compost and a balanced organic fertilizer at planting to avoid leggy, nutrient-starved stems.

Full sun in cool seasons, part shade in summer. Afternoon shade or 30 percent shade cloth keeps leaves tender when temps push 80 F or 27 C.

Seeding that sticks

Direct sow. Cilantro sulks when transplanted because its taproot hates disturbance.

Sow 0.25 inch deep or 6 mm and space 2 inches or 5 cm apart, then thin to 4 to 6 inches or 10 to 15 cm for leafy plants. For cut-bunches, I broadcast and thin by harvesting baby leaves.

The seeds are paired. I gently crack them between my fingers or soak 8 hours for faster, more even sprouting.

“Best germination occurs at 55 to 68 F, 13 to 20 C.” Source: University Extension recommendations frequently cited by Penn State Extension and UC Master Gardener programs.

Temperature, daylength, and bolting

Growing Cilantro loves cool air. Ideal growth sits around 50 to 70 F or 10 to 21 C.

Long days and warm nights flip the bolt switch. My fix is succession sowing every 2 to 3 weeks and a light mulch to keep roots cool.

“Cilantro bolts rapidly in hot, dry weather and longer days.” Source: University of California Cooperative Extension.

Water and feeding

Even moisture tastes better. I give about 1 inch or 25 mm of water weekly, more in heat, on drip to keep foliage dry.

Feed lightly. A fish or seaweed feed every 2 to 3 weeks supports leaf production without pushing weak growth.

Harvest tactics that pay

Start cutting at 4 to 6 inches tall or 10 to 15 cm. I snip outer stems first, or cut bunches 1 inch or 2.5 cm above the crown and let it regrow once.

Leaves come in 25 to 35 days. Coriander seed takes 90 to 120 days, so I let the last sowing of spring run to seed for the spice rack.

Storage and flavor

Stems in a jar of cold water in the fridge last 7 to 10 days. Or chop with a little oil and freeze in trays for quick skillet drops.

For roots, thin a cluster and keep the taproot for Thai dishes. The roots carry concentrated flavor that stands up to grilling and mortar-and-pestle mashing.

Indoors and hydroponics

Indoors, I give 14 to 16 hours of light with a cool room. A PPFD around 200 to 400 µmol m⁻² s⁻¹ keeps compact leaves without overheating.

Hydroponic settings that work for me: pH 6.0 to 6.5 and EC 1.2 to 1.8 mS/cm. Keep solution cool and moving, and harvest small and often.

Pests and diseases

Aphids, leafhoppers, and whiteflies show up first. A weekly hard water spray and a quick check under leaves keeps populations in line.

Powdery mildew and damping-off hit crowded, wet canopies. I space plants well, water at soil level, and clip low foliage to improve airflow.

“Cilantro flowers attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitic wasps.” Source: ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture and multiple Extension publications.

Saving seed and getting great coriander

Let umbels dry on the plant until tan, then bag and snip. Dry fully, rub free, and cure another week before jars.

Green coriander is a sleeper ingredient. Pick it while the seeds are still soft and lime-green for bright citrus pop over grilled fish and cucumbers.

Best bolt-resistant cilantro and summer stand-ins

• ‘Calypso’: bolt tolerant and high leaf count. Reliable in my late spring sowings.
• ‘Caribe’: quick leaf mass and steady flavor in cool weather.
• ‘Santo’: classic market bunching type with sturdy stems.
• ‘Leisure’: dependable early sowings and solid coriander seed set.
• ‘Delfino’: ferny leaves with fine texture for garnish work.
• Culantro Eryngium foetidum: tropical cousin that thrives in heat and shade. The flavor hits harder, and it carries tacos through August.

Companions that pull their weight

Cilantro between lettuces makes a living shade patch. It also pairs well with onions, potatoes, and brassicas while flowers feed beneficials that patrol aphids on nearby peppers.

Quick calendar by season

Early spring: sow every 2 weeks once soil hits 50 F or 10 C. Use row cover to speed germination and block leafhoppers.

Early summer: switch to part shade and a bolt-resistant variety. Increase water and harvest small and fast.

Late summer to fall: resume full sun, heavier sowings, and plan a coriander seed run. First frost sweetens flavor but harvest before a hard freeze.

Gear I actually use for Growing Cilantro

• 30 percent shade cloth with clips for heat spells. It buys me 10 to 14 extra harvest days most summers.
• Drip line on a timer for even moisture without wet foliage.
• Biodegradable pots only if I must transplant, set intact to protect the taproot.
• Balanced organic fertilizer around 4-4-4 for pre-plant and a mild liquid feed for mid-run top-ups.
• LED grow light with a timer for indoor crops, set cool and bright.
• Fine seed sower or a spice jar with holes to spread seed evenly and avoid clumps.

Answers to questions I hear all the time

Why does cilantro taste like soap to some people. Certain people carry a variant of the OR6A2 olfactory receptor, which picks up aldehydes also found in soaps and coriander leaves.

Can I transplant cilantro. You can, but direct seeding outperforms because the taproot resents disturbance.

Why did my cilantro bolt fast. Heat, long days, and dry soil trigger it, so use shade, steady water, and sow again every 2 to 3 weeks.

How much can I harvest without killing the plant. I take no more than a third of the foliage at a time, then let it rebound for 5 to 7 days.

Field notes and credible sources

I track dates, temperatures, and yields, and bolt-resistant lines consistently stretch harvests in my plots by one to two weeks. Shade and succession make the biggest difference during long days.

“Cilantro prefers cool conditions and can be grown spring and fall; hot weather leads to flowering.” Source: Royal Horticultural Society and multiple US Extension guides.

For deeper reading, I rely on UC Master Gardener guidance, Penn State Extension herb sheets, ATTRA’s beneficial insect habitat notes, and USDA herb profiles. Their recommendations match what I see in the beds, and they keep the hype out of the way of good harvests.

Growing cilantro rewards you with flavor that store-bought herbs just can’t touch. Start with good seed, keep the soil moist but not soggy, and harvest leaves young for the brightest taste. Don’t fight its urge to bolt—let a few plants go to seed for a steady supply, or use the seeds as coriander in your kitchen. Rotate beds and re-sow every couple weeks for a near-constant crop. If you’re hungry for more homegrown flavor, try pairing cilantro with other fresh picks like lettuce or arugula. With a little attention and a pinch of patience, you’ll always have a handful of fresh, flavorful herbs ready for your next meal.