How Do You Plant Brussels Sprouts?

Growing Brussels Sprouts: A Gardener's Guide

Brussels sprouts are the unsung heroes of the fall garden. They’re slow growers, sure, but they’re worth every ounce of patience you can muster. These little cabbage cousins thrive in cool weather, and if grown right, they’ll reward you with an abundant harvest of nutty, tender buttons that taste nothing like the mushy stuff from your childhood nightmares.

Timing Is Everything

If you want a successful crop, timing is your starting block. Brussels sprouts are a long-season crop, taking anywhere from 80 to 100 days from transplant to harvest. That means you’ll need to plant them *early enough* to avoid the heat of summer but late enough to reap the benefits of a first frost.

For fall harvests, I like to start seeds indoors about 14 to 16 weeks before my area’s first frost date. If you’re planting in spring, aim to direct sow as soon as the soil is workable, but be warned—these plants hate the scorching summer sun.

Picking the Right Spot

Brussels sprouts demand their own real estate in the garden. They need *full sun*—at least 6 hours a day—and soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining. Heavy clay? Amend it with compost. Sandy soil? Same deal.

They’re also nitrogen hogs, and I’ve found they do best when I grow them in soil that’s been prepped with a good layer of aged manure or a balanced vegetable fertilizer. Pro tip: don’t plant them anywhere their brassica cousins—cabbage, broccoli, or kale—have grown in the last two years. Rotating crops helps keep pests like cabbage worms from setting up camp.

Starting Seeds or Transplants

Seeds

Starting from seed gives you more variety options. Sow them in seed trays about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil evenly moist. Once they sprout, give them plenty of light to prevent leggy seedlings.

When the seedlings have developed two sets of true leaves, transplant them into 4-inch pots to grow stronger roots before moving them outdoors.

Transplants

If patience isn’t your strong suit, store-bought transplants are a fine option. Just check for healthy roots and unblemished leaves. Avoid anything that looks spindly or stressed.

Planting Brussels Sprouts

When it’s time to plant (about 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost in spring or 12 weeks before the first expected frost in fall), dig holes deep enough to bury the stems up to the first pair of leaves. This encourages sturdy growth.

Space plants about 18 to 24 inches apart. These guys get big, and they hate crowding. Trust me, I made the mistake of planting mine too close one year, and they turned into a tangled, spindly mess.

Watering and Feeding

Brussels sprouts are thirsty but don’t tolerate soggy roots. I aim for about 1 to 1.5 inches of water weekly, depending on rainfall. A good mulch layer will help retain moisture and prevent weeds.

As for feeding, I like to hit them with a side dressing of compost or a balanced fertilizer about a month after planting. Once they start forming sprouts, switch to a low-nitrogen fertilizer to encourage fruiting over foliage.

Managing Pests and Problems

If you’ve grown any brassicas before, you already know the usual suspects: aphids, cabbage worms, and flea beetles. A fine mesh row cover can help keep pests at bay early on.

Hand-picking worms is therapeutic if you’ve got the stomach for it, but neem oil works wonders too. Keep an eye out for diseases like clubroot or downy mildew, and yank out any infected plants fast to stop the spread.

Harvesting Brussels Sprouts

The real magic happens after the first frost, which sweetens the sprouts naturally. Start harvesting from the bottom of the stalk upward, as the lower sprouts mature first. I use a sharp knife to twist them off cleanly.

If you’re dealing with a bumper crop, don’t forget that Brussels sprouts freeze beautifully. Just blanch them first to lock in their flavor.

“Brussels sprouts get better with frost. They’re the dessert of the brassica world—sweet, nutty, and downright addictive.”

Final Tip: Patience Pays Off

Growing Brussels sprouts isn’t exactly a sprint, but it’s a deeply satisfying process. They demand some attention and care, but the result? A crop that transforms your cold-weather meals into something unforgettable.

Honestly, there’s nothing like roasting your own homegrown sprouts with olive oil and salt. They’ll convert even the staunchest sprout skeptic—trust me on this one.

The seeds germinate in five to eight days at optimal temperatures of 75 to 77 F (23 – 25 C). They perform the best in full sunlight with at least 6 hours of direct sun most of the days. Too much shade slows down the maturity period of the plants and also produces lower harvest. Put the seedling tray in a spot that receives lots of direct sunlight for a higher success rate. It is a cool-weather plant and sprouts from the seed when the soil temperatures are between 45 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the seeds have germinated successfully, do not pull out the little seedlings as it damages the roots. Keep the germinated seeds properly watered at all times as it is a sensitive stage and the seedlings benefit from a moist soil. If the seeds were sown indoors, they will need 7 to 10 days to get used to outdoor temperature conditions. Use a cloche or mini greenhouse to protect the seedlings from sudden changes in temperatues and gradually remove the cloche for longer periods.