What to Plant in February for a Healthy Spring Garden

I plan from my last expected spring frost date, not the calendar, then work backward 2 to 10 weeks. NOAA and local extension offices publish frost normals that keep me honest.

Recent USDA data shows many areas shifted warmer by about a half-zone in the 2023 Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but I still hedge with row cover and cold frames.

• Zones 3 to 5: Start indoors now: onions, leeks, celery, celeriac, parsley, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, lettuce, peppers for a long runway, and perennial flowers like echinacea.
• Zones 3 to 5: Outdoors under cover if soil is workable: spinach, mache, claytonia, scallions, radish, and peas under a low tunnel of fabric rated 0.9 to 1.5 oz per sq yd.
• Zones 6 to 7: Direct sow late month: peas, spinach, arugula, radish, and spring carrots in compost-rich soil when it hits 45 to 50 F (7 to 10 C).
• Zones 6 to 7: Start indoors late month: tomatoes and basil, and keep brassica sowings rolling.
• Zones 8 to 9: Set out potatoes, transplant broccoli and cabbage, and direct sow beets, carrots, cilantro, dill, and chard.
• Zones 8 to 9: Start warm lovers indoors if you prefer transplants: cucumbers, squash, and melons toward month’s end.
• Zones 10 to 11: Plant warm-season workhorses now outdoors, then succession sow every 2 to 3 weeks for sustained harvests.

I use a sterile seed mix, bottom heat, and bright light at seedling height. The difference in stocky growth is night and day.

Most vegetables germinate best at 70 to 75 F (21 to 24 C), while cool brassicas sprout fine at 65 F (18 C). I give seedlings 14 to 16 hours of light at 4000 to 6500 K.

“Provide seedlings with 14 to 16 hours of light daily and keep lights 2 to 3 inches above the canopy.” University of Minnesota Extension

Soil blocks cut plastic waste and develop strong root architecture. Plug trays work too if you manage water and air flow.

I water from the bottom, brush the tops with my hand every day, and run a clip fan for airflow. That simple routine keeps damping-off at bay.

Peas germinate at 40 F (4 C) but sprint at 60 to 75 F (16 to 24 C). I pre-soak 8 hours, then dust with inoculant for a richer root zone.

“Pea seed germination begins near 40 F, improves as soils warm, and seed rots increase in cold, saturated beds.” Iowa State University Extension

Spinach wants cool soil around 45 to 55 F (7 to 13 C). I sow thick, thin early, and mulch with shredded leaves to hold moisture.

Radishes give me quick wins in 24 to 35 days. Fast feedback cures winter rust and sharpens timing for spring.

What to plant in February for color starts under cover. I sow sweet peas in deep cells, plus snapdragons, pansies, violas, calendula, larkspur, poppies, and nigella.

“Sow sweet peas in late winter under cover in deep pots for stout roots and earlier blooms.” Royal Horticultural Society

I pinch sweet peas at 3 to 4 inches and harden them off as soon as the ground can be worked. They shrug off chilly nights with a bit of fleece.

February is prime for bare-root fruit trees, roses, cane berries, asparagus crowns, and rhubarb, as long as the soil isn’t waterlogged or frozen. Dormant roots establish fast in cool, moist soil.

I soak roots 1 to 2 hours, prune broken tips, and set the graft union 2 to 3 inches above grade. Then I water in with 5 to 10 liters (1 to 2.5 gallons) per plant.

I chit seed potatoes in bright, cool light at 50 to 60 F (10 to 16 C) for two weeks. Plant once soil reaches 45 F (7 C) and isn’t sticky.

Onion strategy matters. Long-day types suit northern latitudes, short-day types thrive in the South, and day-neutral types serve the middle belt.

“Onion bulbing is triggered by day length, not plant age.” Cornell Cooperative Extension

I start onion seed 10 to 12 weeks before transplanting or set out onion sets in late February in mild zones. I aim for 4 to 6 plants per square foot with rich, weed-free beds.

February still gives me a cold window for species like milkweed, rudbeckia, and prairie dropseed. I sow in flats outdoors to let chill and moisture do the work.

Label everything with pencil. Marker ink fades faster than a sunny thaw.

I top-dress beds with 2 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) of mature compost and a light sprinkle of balanced organic fertilizer, then let snow and rain settle it. Cold soils mineralize nutrients slowly, so I focus on biology, not brute force NPK.

A $20 soil test beats guesswork. I correct pH to 6.2 to 6.8 for most vegetables and add sulfur or lime in small, well-timed doses.

• LED shop lights at 4000 to 6500 K, 200 to 400 PPFD at canopy, 14 to 16 hours daily.
• Heat mat sized to a 10 by 20 tray with a thermostat set to 70 to 75 F (21 to 24 C).
• Plug trays or soil blocks, a fine seed mix, vermiculite for top-dressing, and bottom-watering trays.
• Oscillating clip fan and a digital soil thermometer. Cheap, effective, essential.
• Row cover 0.9 to 1.5 oz per sq yd and a stack of U-pins for quick frost protection.

University and RHS guidance backs these specs, and my spring plants look stout instead of leggy. The right light and steady temps turn February effort into April abundance.

• Leafy greens: spinach, lettuce, arugula, Asian greens, mache, claytonia.
• Roots: radish, beet, carrot, turnip, spring onion, shallot sets in mild zones.
• Legumes: peas outdoors as soil allows, fava beans in cool, maritime climates.
• Brassicas: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale started indoors nationwide.
• Alliums: onion seed, leeks, onion sets where winters are mild.
• Nightshades: peppers in most zones and tomatoes from zones 6 to 9 late month.
• Tubers and crowns: potatoes, asparagus, rhubarb, Jerusalem artichoke.
• Herbs: parsley, chives, cilantro direct in cool soil, basil under lights.
• Flowers: sweet peas, snapdragons, pansies, violas, larkspur, poppies, calendula, nigella.

• Brassicas: sow 6 to 8 weeks before last frost. Transplant 2 to 4 weeks before last frost.
• Onions and leeks: sow 10 to 12 weeks before transplant. Plant out when soil hits 45 F (7 C).
• Peppers: sow 8 to 10 weeks before last frost. Keep at 75 to 80 F (24 to 27 C) for germination.
• Tomatoes: sow 6 to 8 weeks before last frost. Pot up once to avoid lanky stems.
• Sweet peas: sow in February. Plant out as soon as ground is workable.
• Potatoes: plant when soil is 45 to 50 F (7 to 10 C). Hill twice as shoots reach 6 inches (15 cm).

A late freeze once iced my pea trellis like a sculpture. I tossed row cover over the bed at dusk and still picked pods three weeks earlier than my neighbor.

I stagger sowings every two weeks in February to smooth out the spring glut. That cadence turns feast-and-famine into steady, sane harvests.

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map 2023 update, NOAA climate normals for frost dates, and your state or county extension keep timing tight. Royal Horticultural Society advice on late winter sowing and chitting potatoes lines up with my results.

“Know your frost dates, watch soil temperature, and protect tender starts.” Cooperative Extension mantra heard in every winter workshop

So, what to plant in February? This is your chance to get a jump on the season. Think cold-hardy greens like spinach, kale, and arugula. Drop in peas and radishes if the soil lets you. If you’ve got a greenhouse or a sunny windowsill, start tomatoes and peppers indoors. Don’t skip the companions—pairing the right crops can make all the difference. And if you want more punch from your harvest, check out nutrient-dense vegetables for ideas.

February’s about grit and patience. Plant now, and you’ll be eating fresh when everyone else is still thumbing seed catalogs. Trust the process, keep the soil warm, and don’t be afraid to experiment. You’ll thank yourself come spring.